Day 115: 23.3 miles hiked (trail mile 1507.1)
Caterpillar poop and hairy caterpillars rained down upon us the whole first half of the day in an apparent Gypsy Moth invasion of the area. There was so much falling poo that it sounded deceptively of the pitter patter of rain. Swollen, waterlogged caterpillar poops coated the stream beds, and with each step I unavoidably squashed 2 or 3 caterpillars underfoot with a crunch. The forest, formerly so lush, was as barren as when we started the trail back in the dead of winter, and partially chewed leaf litter covered the ground in crunchy, hole-punched leaves that made it somewhat reminiscent of fall. However, the absence of shade combined with the intensity of the unobstructed summer sun zapped any illusion of a crisp fall day and we were relieved when we finally entered an area with leafy canopy once again.
We stopped for lunch by a spring, flicked caterpillars off our packs and clothes, and then braked again at an ivy-covered building with a bench thoughtfully placed beside an electrical outlet that hikers can use to charge devices. By the time we left the bench the heat of the day had passed, and we finally got a second wind to complete the rest of our hike.
A few miles before the shelter we passed the Thumb - a giant rock formation in the shape of a thumb. Near the Thumb that we encountered an amicable solo hiker named Lighthouse.
We got to the shelter just before dark and found Frogman, Side Hustle, and Sketchbook already there. Rigo shelter has a beautiful view of the valley from the picnic table, and we made mac n cheese while watching the last of the light fade from the valley.
1500 miles hiked!
Day 116: 16.8 miles hiked (trail mile 1523.9)
Today’s hike from Connecticut (Riga shelter) into Great Barrington, Massachusetts was one of the most beautiful sections of the AT thus far. We hiked along a crystal-clear forest brook that flowed over tiers of small waterfalls into transparent pools that shimmered in the dappled light, and continuously stopped to silently take in the beauty of the forest.
Eventually the path left the denser forest, and we began climbing a series of two mountains, ending with Mount Everett, a deceptively challenging peak that left us—and just about everyone else we talked to later this evening—utterly spent. While descending Everett we met some young camp counselors with a backpacking summer camp called Overland. They were out doing training before the kids show up in a couple weeks. It sounds like a neat summer job and makes me wish I had been more adventurous in my early twenties, but glad I’m making up for it now!
Near the bottom of the mountain, as we hauled ourselves up and over a small boulder in the middle of the trail, a timber rattlesnake took us by surprise as it sunned itself atop the boulder. Thankfully it was unconcerned with our presence and didn’t even rattle.
The entire trail we have gotten by without having to hitch, so numerous have been the shuttles, places within walking distance, and folks offering rides. Hitchhiking is very prevalent on the AT and—before cellphones or all the new trail services—the absolute only way you could make it into town for a resupply. As we made calls trying to set up a shuttle it became evident that the time to thumb for a ride had finally arrived. Ranger assured me that people who live so near the trail are familiar with giving rides to hikers and that hitching would be a breeze. We are probably in the minority of hikers having made it this far without choosing to hitch.
We ran the last three miles to the road, driven by a desire to make it out before dark, before the presently increasing drizzle became a full-blown rainstorm, and out of a desperate desire to flee the swarms of mosquitoes in the final 3-mile boggy stretch before the road to Great Barrington. Packs clinking and flopping, slapping our bodies to kill hostile mosquitos biting through our clothes, Ranger running behind me swinging his electric bug zapper at the cloud that followed in my wake – made for an exhilarating and cacophonous end to our day’s hike.
In less than two minutes of thumb-work a friendly local guy picked us up in his SUV and dropped us at the hiker-friendly Travelodge 5 miles down the road, pointing out landmarks in the town as we passed through on our way to the motel.
We picked up dinner across from the motel at a wonderful Mediterranean restaurant and ate at a picnic table in front of the motel. The evening was spent showering, doing laundry, and lounging about our room.
Just on the edge of town, right on trail
Day 117: 0 miles hiked (trail mile 1523.9) (10th Zero)
Thanks to the blackout curtains on our hotel room, we managed to sleep in until about 10am when housekeeping banged on the door. We said hi to Whistler in the room above us then started out on a 2-mile stroll to downtown Great Barrington. Our first stop was at Asia Barong, a giant Asian art and antiques shop packed with ornate carvings, paintings, weapons, and furniture. We could hardly believe a shop of this magnitude and caliber would be in such a seemingly remote part of Massachusetts.
Ornate doorframe carved from a tree’s root system!
It’s impossible to capture on my phone how mind-blowing this place is.
In downtown Great Barrington we visited a candy shop, and each had cherry cordial before making our way to a Thai restaurant for lunch. Ranger received a lovely origami rose atop his straw which set the tone for an incredible meal of yellow curry and green curry.
We ran into Spots and Snapshot who were staying at a hotel downtown and also zeroing today. After touring a fine art gallery with some incredible art, we stopped into a beautiful gift shop on the edge of town to lust over all the tasteful homemaking items we would wish for if we weren’t living on strictly the bare minimum essentials that can be carried in a backpack.
Pastoral, by Stephanie Anderson (graphite on clayboard)
On our way back to the hotel later we stopped at a chocolate shop and sampled some truffles and chocolate covered fruits. All in all, today felt like a relaxing vacation in the more typical sense of what a vacation is. There have been debates among hikers about whether a thruhike can be classified as a vacation. When I think of a thruhike in juxtaposition to the desk job I left to have this adventure, I am more inclined to see the vacation angle, albeit a highly unconventional and challenging one! However, for many, and often for myself as my city life starts to feel more and more unfamiliar to me, thruhiking feels more like a lifestyle.
This evening we resupplied for the next stretch of trail at a Price Chopper supermarket right next to our hotel and took it easy for the remainder of the night.
Day 118: 17.7 miles hiked (trail mile 1541.6)
Today was the first day of summer! It was also hike naked day, although we neither encountered any naked hikers nor hiked naked ourselves. Later, however, we did hear from others who fearlessly honored the holiday.
We got a ride back to the trailhead with Whistler and Ed, a section hiker. Joe is a trail angel who does donation-based shuttling between Great Barrington and the trailhead in his retirement. He keeps a printed binder of graphs and charts containing data that he has collected over the years on all the hikers he has shuttled that riders can review, including gear types, NoBo or SoBo, home country, and so on. It was entertaining to look at and I love seeing how a love for the Appalachian Trail manifests differently in everyone.
We hiked with Whistler up to the ridge and lunched at the Ice Gulch. The Ice Gulch is so deep that apparently ice or snow can remain at the bottom until mid-summer. As we peered down below we felt its powerful presence.
Later, when passing a beaver pond, we spotted a beaver swimming in the center! Animal sightings are always exciting.
Toward the end of the day, we caught up with Orange, one of Whistler’s trail buddies. They hiked on while Ranger and I took our time getting to Shaker Campsite. The last stretch was beautiful, and pockets of cold air streamed across our legs from underground caves. This was an enchanting section.
Cave entrance
At the Shaker Campsite another group of Overland counselors had already set up so it’s a packed campsite tonight. It’s funny how (particularly in New England) so many campsites or shelters will say in the Guthooks map notes, “space for about 4 tents” then by the end of the night there are at least 20 tents strewn about. This campsite is evidently an old Shaker village and there are a few old stone walls around.
Day 119: 18.8 miles hiked (trail mile 1560.4)
When we left camp around 8am it almost immediately started to rain. The rain continued all day long at varying degrees of intensity.
At one point we crossed a road and encountered a small red structure with “AT Trail Stand” emblazoned on the side. Since this wasn’t on our map our curiosity was piqued and we discovered that it contained a fridge, some boxes of snacks, a couple trashcans, and chalk (to write trail names on the walls). On the fridge was a list of all items for sale: farm fresh eggs, candy, soda, etc. and an honor system money pouch perched on a shelf. Ranger bought a box of Mike and Ike’s and we continued, crossing through some cow pastures while munching joyfully on candy.
Then, just before noon, we exited the forest and saw a trail angel just getting set up to share food and drink with hikers. Running Water has been section hiking the AT since 1991 and prides himself in providing top notch trail magic. I had just been sulking over the fact that we wouldn’t have an opportunity to seek any shelter from the rain for another 12 miles when we came across Running Water’s set up, complete with a large pop-up tent and two large coolers of snacks and drink. Ranger and I shared an extra-large lemonade Gatorade and a giant bag of potato chips before heading back out.
Unwilling to bother with making lunch in the rain we pressed on to the Berkshire Lodge where the owners were kind enough to let us sit outside under the awning to make our sandwiches. I plugged my phone in inside and Ranger bought a cup of hot coffee.
The rest of the hike consisted of a few beaver dams and bogs, and a couple pretty lakes.
We made it into camp around 6:45 where we set up our tent, put on dry clothes, and went to the shelter to cook our soy ramen dinner under the overhang. We heard peeping coming from a bird’s nest inside the shelter on one of the rafters. One of the guys sleeping in there said that mama bird had been flying back and forth all evening. It seems like a nice place for a nest—very protected.
Day 120: 16.5 miles hiked (trail mile 1576.9)
The trail took us straight through the town of Dalton this morning. A short walk off trail took us to Hot Harry’s Burritos, a chipotle style burrito shop where we purchased a gigantic burrito and burrito bowl. The burritos fueled the next big climb out of town in a major way.
Front yard of a trail angel in Cheshire who lets hikers camp in his yard!
Only four miles outside of Dalton we stayed at Crystal Mountain Campsite, a well-maintained campsite with a picnic table and bear box.
Day 121: 12.3 miles hiked (trail mile 1589.2)
First thing in the morning we hiked four miles to Cheshire where we did a resupply at a Dollar General. Outside the store we met ET, who told us about a lodge eight miles away, perched atop Mount Greylock, which offers a hiker rate of only $35 a bunk.
We reserved a couple bunks on the spot and passed the word along to a section hiker named Babbit who was hanging out outside.
Ranger grabbed us an amazing breakfast from Dunkin’ Donuts in a Shell station a few blocks down the highway, which we ate while sitting on the ground outside the Dollar General like proper hiker trash.
While hiking out we ran into Whistler and Orange. It may be the last time we see Whistler before the end of the trail as he and Orange are going to skip north 100 miles to meet up with Suzanne and do some group slackpacking. It makes me sad to think about not running into Whistler day after day anymore, but it sounds like this group is excited to finish the rest of the trail together.
After saying our goodbyes we hiked eight miles up Mount Greylock in what turned out to be a beautiful climb through a gloriously lush forest.
There was a lovely little pond with an empty cabin sitting on it that we stopped at for a short break. I wonder how often thruhikers choose to sleep in this cabin, it’s really neat.
On top of Greylock we reached our destination for the night: the Greylock Monument and the Bascom Lodge. Our bunk mates included ET, Parmesan, Babbit, and Daybreak with her dog Cora. Babbit had us rolling in laughter as he recounted that it was the first day of his section hike and that he had taken our recommendation to stay at the Bascom Lodge and booked a bed before realizing that I had left out the ever so minor detail that it was on top of the next major mountain!
We have a fantastic view of the valley from our mountaintop room. There is an open window circulating cold air into the room, so I am bundled up in my puffy and lodge-provided fleece blankets for sleep.
Ranger fell asleep early but ET and I walked to the monument for a view of the strawberry super moon over the valley.
Bascom Lodge