Kumano Kodo

The Kumano Kodo is a 1,000 year old network of pilgrimage trails on Japan's Kii Peninsula. It is one of only two UNESCO World Heritage pilgrimage trails, the other being the Camino De Santiago in Europe. We have stitched together two routes to build a 10-day trek. The Nakahechi (~70km) and Kohechi (~65km) routes will take us through forests, over mountain passes, past grand shrines, and will include a traditional boat ride on the Kumano River where it meets the Ocean. Learn more about the Kumano Kodo on the local tourism bureau’s website: https://www.tb-kumano.jp/en/kumano-kodo/

Compared to the Camino de Santiago—for which I booked no lodging in advance when I walked the last 100km from Sarria to Santiago de Compostela with family in Fall of 2024—the Kumano Kodo takes an incredible amount of advance planning. There are far fewer pilgrims on the Kumano Kodo and tent camping is forbidden, except in a handful of select sites. Pilgrims must stay in ryokans (inns), minshukus (guesthouses), hostels, temples, with the option to opt into meals, including packed lunches. Luggage shuttles are also an option, although we’ve chosen to stow our city gear in the train station and carry our backpacking gear for the love of the game. Because of the limited availability of lodging, pilgrims generally make reservation requests 4–6 months in advance of travel.

We made all of our reservations through the local booking system (link above). It took us about 10 hours and was not for the faint of heart. Every logistical variable had to be taken into consideration. For each lodging selection we had to pick a first choice, and at least three back-up options, define dietary restrictions (especially interesting to navigate since Chris’ Alpha Gal diagnosis last year), provide a projected arrival mode and time, and so on. On the bright side, this is the most well-planned trip of our lives and hopefully means once we get there we can feel liberated of any responsibilities but walking.

It’s sure to be a memorable experience and since we loved keeping an online journal about our Appalachian Trail thru-hike, we’ve decided to do the same with our honeymoon. Thanks for following along!